Are you looking to adopt a ferret? There are many places, probably in your own state where you can adopt one.
Ferrets make wonderful pets, if you’re prepared for the challenge and responsibility. They require more maintenance than a cat and in some ways a bit less maintenance than a dog. But they’re more fragile than cats and dogs, so you’ll have to keep an eye on them to keep them out of danger. Before adopting a ferret, do your homework, prepare yourself, and make sure you’re ready for the responsibility that ferrets require.
Ferret Supplies
Before bringing your ferret home, you’ll need certain basic supplies. Although many owners let their ferrets have the run of the house, or a special room; it’s far safer to purchase a large cage designed for a ferret, with a litter box. The cage will keep him safe and secure while he’s unsupervised. But be sure to let him out of his cage to play in a safe area for at least 4 hours a day.
Ferrets need a good quality food designed to meet their needs – 36 – 38% meat. They are obligate carnivores who require a strict meat diet (even more so than cats) and have a hard time digesting sugars and carbohydrates. Do not let them eat any sort of sweets – candy or fruit – it can cause cancer. You can find special dry food designed for ferrets or you could go with a high-quality, high-meat content cat food.
Can You Live With A Ferret?
Ferrets have a distinctive odor – some call it musky. Even when a ferret has their scent gland removed (descented) it doesn’t completely remove the odor. When you go to adopt a ferret, make sure you’ll be able to live with this odor for 6 – 10 years (life expectancy of a ferret). It’s an odor that can not be bathed away – in fact bathing your ferret will make it stronger.
If you have children under the age of 7, a ferret might not be appropriate for your household. Ferrets are relatively fragile and don’t hold up well to rough play – they could easily become injured. If you do plan to keep a ferret around young children, make sure any interaction is well supervised.
Veterinary Care
Ferrets require yearly rabies and Canine distemper shots. These shots should be designed for a ferret – so make sure you find a veterinarian who is qualified and equipped to care for your ferret. And there are special health concerns to be aware of when it comes to a pet ferret, so learn as much as you can through your veterinarian, books and/or the internet.
When you’ve firmly decided it’s right for you and your family to adopt a ferret, you’ll find shelters located in many states across the United States. Call your local animal shelter or go to the American Ferret Association website for an up to date listing of shelters.
Taking care of parakeets involves quite a few things. But once you get the hang of it, it’s really quite simple.
The common pet parakeet (budgie) is an intelligent and beautiful pet to own. Before bringing one home from the pet store or breeder, you’ll need certain supplies related to taking care of parakeets. First of all you’ll need a good cage and the right food. And you’ll also need to know how to treat your bird in the safest way possible.
Parakeet Cages
When choosing a cage for your new parakeet, try and get the largest cage you can find. It should be big enough so that your parakeet can spread his/her wings out to their full span. But make sure it’s designed for small birds and parakeets – not larger birds such as cockatiels, cockatoos or parrots. This is mainly due to the space between the metal bars. If the space is too large, a parakeet can get his/her head caught between them and become seriously injured.
The parakeet cage should have a pullout bottom tray for easy cleaning. And if you can find one, a cage with a raised, grilled floor is wonderful. It helps keep them off their dirty, messy floor. Line the bottom tray of their cage with an absorbent material such as newspaper, paper sacks, etc.
Make sure the cage has a swing and at least a couple of perches too. Buy a cuttlebone and attach it to the inside of the cage, because parakeets like to chew on things – and it will help keep their beak trim.
Place their cage in a quiet, draft-free area. You can use towels to shield off sides of their cage if you need to. And always cover up the top ½ to ¾ of their cage at bedtime with towels to tell them it’s night time and to quiet them down.
Feeding Parakeets
Choose a good quality seed, designed for birds such as parakeets, as a staple diet. And supplement this with parakeet vitamin drops. Make sure you clean their food and water dishes daily.
Be Gentle
Try not to make loud noises or sudden movements around your parakeet – they frighten easily. When you first get your bird, place your hand in their cage for a few minutes at a time, while gently talking or singing to them. Do this a few times a day for the first week. This will show the parakeet that you’re not a threat and will help to establish a bond. Don’t move your hand around a lot in the cage, be slow and deliberate with any movements. Eventually the parakeet may let you pet him/her or even hop on your hand.
Whenever you open your parakeet’s cage, make sure all the doors and windows are closed. And keep any other animals out of the room. A parakeet can get out of their cage in a flash.
Parakeet Exercise
After the first week, it’s a good idea to let your parakeet out of their cage to fly around the room for a while – make sure it’s a small room. Exercise is extremely important for parakeets, and flying is the only way they can get it. You might want to place their cage on the floor the first few times, so they can easily return to it when they get tired. And they’ll tire out pretty fast the first week or two. You might want to do this in the smallest room possible (bathroom, small bedroom, etc.) the first few times, so your parakeet doesn’t crash and get stuck behind a bookcase or big piece of furniture. They’re very weak flyers the first few times, but they eventually get their strength up, and become excellent flyers.
If you’re just starting out with pet bird breeding, you probably have thousands of questions. This is completely normal. And sometimes you might feel a little ashamed to ask certain basic questions, because experienced breeders might think you’re stupid.
Remember what your teacher told you – “the only stupid question is the one that’s never asked.” We all have to start at the beginning sometime, and finding out a few of the basics can help you feel a whole lot more confident.
Will The Eggs Hatch?
One of the first things many new bird breeders wonder is whether or not the eggs their bird is laying will hatch. If she’s a single female, the answer is no. Eggs need to be fertilized before the bird lays them. So she needs to have a male bird in her cage to make fertile eggs – at least before she lays them.
Parrots, parakeets, cockatiels, and other pet birds will lay infertile eggs just like chickens do. You can throw the infertile eggs away, pair her up with a male, or try to discourage her from laying more eggs.
If she’s still alone and doesn’t stop laying eggs, you can try allowing her to keep her eggs until she stops laying them. She may sit on them for a few weeks, but she will eventually abandon them when they don’t hatch.
Do Birds Need Nest Boxes?
Another question a lot of new bird breeds ask is whether or not their birds will breed without nest boxes. Although some birds will lay eggs and hatch them successfully on the bottom of their cage or in an empty feed cup, it’s not a good idea.
A nest box is designed to keep the baby birds safe and warm and will help their parents feel more secure and relaxed. Also, if your birds nest on the bottom of the cage, by the time the eggs hatch and the babies grow up, the cage would be terribly dirty and unsanitary.
How Long Before the Eggs Hatch?
Another question bird owners ask is how long it takes bird eggs to hatch. Although times vary depending on the species, most eggs will take about three weeks to hatch.
Some birds don’t begin to incubate the eggs until they’re all laid, which causes them to all hatch at the same time. But most birds begin incubating almost immediately. This means that a clutch of five babies can range in age from one day to ten days old.
Some breeders choose to remove the eggs as they are laid and then return them all to the next after the hen finishes laying her eggs so that they’ll hatch more closely together. However, before trying this, be aware that the parents may not accept the eggs back.
Keep an Eye on the Hen
Finally, you might notice that the female is not leaving the nesting box as regularly as the male. This doesn’t mean that she is starving. A good mate will feed the female so she doesn’t have to leave the babies often. However, it’s still a good idea to keep an eye on the situation to be sure the female is getting food and water.
As a cat owner I have often wondered, “Why do cats purr?”
Felines are the only animals that display this behavior – and they all do it.
It’s not only the little domesticated cats that we all know and love – the big cats do it too – lions, tigers, etc.
Feeling Healthy and Content
Don’t you get the feeling that your cat is healthy and content when you hear her purring? I sure do.
It is like all her needs – food, shelter, comfort, security, and peace of mind are all being met. As a cat owner – it is a wonderful feeling.
Lap Kitties
When my cats are in my lap and I’m petting them – they seem to be in their most contented state. The purring is like a background rhythm or song to their grooming and then it lulls them off to sleep.
And, I have to admit – it makes me drowsy as well. It’s like they’re lulling me to sleep too.
Feeding Time
I notice that at times the purring is louder and more frantic. This is especially true at feeding time. When my cats see me grab a can of cat food or a bag of dry food their purring gets out of control.
It’s almost as if they are having trouble drawing in a regular breath of air – but they don’t seem to be struggling, they are ecstatic.
Times of Distress
I have a cat right now that purrs at all times – good and bad. Of course she purrs during times of comfort and contentment. But she also purrs when she’s sick, injured, or at the veterinarian.
She even purrs when the Vet is giving her a shot or taking her temperature. Now that’s pretty incredible.
This seems to fly in the face of conventional wisdom that says – “Cats purr because they are happy or content.” This made me wonder even more why cats purr.
Reasons for Cat Purring
I did a little research and discovered that cats purr for a variety of reasons and scientists can only speculate why. I guess you could say that it is not yet an exact science.
It could be as a survival instinct when a kitten is newly born. The Mother kitty will purr to keep her blind and vulnerable newborn kittens from straying too far.
And newborn kittens purr to keep their Mother nearby. Who knows, maybe each individual purr is distinct to a Mother kitty – and she can keep track of every one of them at all times.
An interesting study found that a cat’s purring produces vibrations within a certain frequency that promotes bone strength and physical healing. This would explain why a cat purrs when they’re sick or injured. And it explains why we feel so comforted when holding a purring feline.
Others theorize that cats purr as a sign of peace or friendship in a threatening situation – human or other feline. It helps to put the other threatening creature at ease.
How Does a Cat Purr?
How a cat purrs is another thing that is not known 100% for sure either. But some scientists think that it has to do with a cat’s vocal folds and the vibrations they make when air is inhaled and exhaled.
Cats are Pretty Special Creatures
No matter how or why a cat purrs – it’s just one of the many things that makes cats such a special and one of a kind pet. Is there any other pet that can give you more comfort and peace when you’re holding it?
I know that after a stressful day, I can pick up my cat and it seems like all the stress just melts away as I’m taken captive by those soothing purrs.
Pet insurance is very similar to human insurance. It gives you peace of mind knowing that you can take your animal to the doctor whenever he/she needs to go.
If there’s an accident, illness, or just the annual well-pet check-up and vaccinations – you can take your precious pet to the veterinarian without hesitation.
You’ll know you won’t have to bear the whole financial burden.
How Pet Insurance Plans Work
Here’s how it works. To get protection for your pet, you’ll pay a monthly or yearly fee – which varies according to the company and plan you choose.
Probably two of the biggest pet insurance companies are VPI and ASPCA – and they both offer a wide range of options to meet the needs of different pets and pet owners.
When shopping for pet insurance, you’ll find companies offering basic plans that start at $8 a month all the way up to deluxe plans that cost $100 a month.
These plans cover pretty much anything a veterinarian has to offer – annual exams, accidents, illnesses, spaying and neutering, vaccinations, dental cleanings, x-rays, hospital stays and more. It’s all according to what you want and what you can afford.
Here’s how the plans work. You take your pet to the vet, pay for the services out of your pocket and then submit a few forms and paperwork to the insurance provider and they’ll reimburse a percentage of your expenses after you meet a certain deductible. Most companies have a low $100 annual deductible.
Not Just Dog Insurance and Cat Insurance
You’ll find that many companies offer discounts if you have multiple pets. And it’s not just for dogs and cats. You can get coverage for your ferret, chinchilla, rabbit, iguana, chameleon, gecko, snake, pot-bellied pig or other exotic pet too.
With pet insurance you’ll rest a little easier knowing that if something happens to your dog, cat, parrot, snake or other precious creature – you can take him/her to the vet without having to worry too much about financial issues.
Usually when we talk about cat behavior problems we aren’t talking about bad cats.
We are talking about legitimate behaviors that are mis-directed. If you can find what is causing the problem, then you can find the solution in most cases.
Not Using the Litter Box
One category of problem cat behavior is house soiling. This is where your cat chooses to go to the bathroom (poop or urinate) in places other than his litter box.
Sometimes you’ll discover the accidents just outside the litterbox – like they just missed the mark. Other times you’ll find the accidents far away from the litter box.
What is the cause? There are quite a few possible reasons for this – and solutions to the problem. We’ll start with the easy ones first.
Feeling Threatened and Privacy Please
Some cats are particular about where they go to the bathroom. They may not like the litter box itself, or where you put it.
If it’s a covered litterbox and you have multiple cats – a particular cat could be scared that the other cats will sneak up on her while she is at her most vulnerable. Solution? An uncovered litterbox. It will give her vision on all sides while she’s doing her business.
Is the litter box in a high traffic area? Some cats value their privacy and don’t like being disturbed while they’re going about their business. Try moving the litterbox to another (more secluded) location and see if that helps.
Keep it Clean
Keep the litterboxes clean. Many cats will choose not to use a box that is overflowing with kitty waste. Imagine having to walk and do your business in a filthy bathroom – that’s what a cat is having to do. Try and clean it at least every other day – especially if more than one cat is using the box.
Many experts recommend having one litter box available for each cat in your household – plus one. For example – if you have 2 cats, you’ll need 3 litterboxes. If you have 3 cats, you’ll need 4 boxes.
Not all Kitty Litter is Created Equal
Some cats are particular about the type of litter they’ll use. If you’re using scented litter – switch to unscented. If you’re using large grains of litter, switch to a finer grain of litter.
You might even try switching brands of litter – there may be something about a particular brand’s ingredients that your finicky cat just doesn’t like.
Special Needs Cats
Elderly, overweight, or handicapped cats may have difficulty getting in and out of a deep litter box. Try a shallow pan instead. It doesn’t have to be made specifically for cats – any shallow plastic container will usually work. This could be a solution for little bitty kittens having problems too.
Underlying Medical Conditions
If you make the previous mentioned changes and they don’t work – then your cat may have an underlying medical condition that won’t allow her to do her business in the proper place.
There could be internal problems such as a urinary tract infection – look for bloody urine in the litter box and other places. One of my cats decided to pee his bloody urine in the bathtub – which let me know he had a problem and made it easy for me to clean up.
So don’t hesitate to take your kitty cat to the vet. If you notice bloody urine, bloody stools, diarrhea, or straining to urinate – it could be the sign of a real illness.
Cat Spraying
Cat spraying is another real problem for cat owners. That strong smell of urine is hard to get rid of and a hard habit for your cat to overcome, but there are solutions.
Spay and Neuter
First of all, you should get your cat fixed. A neutered male cat is much less likely to spray than an unneutered one. And, though less common, female cats can spray too.
Cats spray to mark their territory. An unfixed cat produces pretty powerful reproductive hormones that drive him to mark his territory. If any threat to his territory arises – from a cat within his household or even a cat that he smells outside the house – then he will feel the need to spray.
So fixing a cat (male or female) goes a long way towards solving the problem. But even fixed cats (especially if they were fixed later in life) can still spray. Although it’s much less frequent.
Cat Spray Prevention
How do you prevent a cat from spraying? You can spray Feliway in the areas where he/she has sprayed to hopefully prevent them from spraying there in the future.
You can also place cat repellent around the perimeter of your house to hopefully prevent the neighborhood cats from hanging out there.
Cleaning Cat Urine
Cleaning cat urine can be a challenge, especially if you don’t know where the smell is coming from. Let’s face it – you’re not always around when your cat decides to spray.
In this situation, you can use a special light that will help you locate cat urine stains. When you find the culprit, use a good odor neutralizer cleanser such as Nature’s Miracle to get rid of the odor.
Cat Scratching
Cat Scratching is another problem that all cat owners have to deal with (unless you have a declawed cat). All cats have the need to stretch and exercise their paws and claws.
If they’re outside they will do it on trees, fences, and other similar surfaces. In addition, this also helps to mark their territory.
Provide Good Outlets for Their Behavior
So you need to provide your cat with a variety of surfaces to accomplish this task. Don’t just provide one sisal scratching post and expect the problem to disappear.
Sometimes cats like to scratch corrugated cardboard scratchers that lie flat so they can stand on top. Sometimes they like to lean into a nice, tall, sturdy sisal scratcher (it provides the same function as a tree). And other times they like to scratch into a carpeted surface.
You might try sprinkling a little catnip on these items for more of an attraction factor. Some cats like it; some don’t.
Protecting Your Furniture
Unfortunately, even if you do provide them with plenty of good scratching devices – they will still choose to scratch your prized possessions. Sofas, chairs, and carpets don’t stand a chance against a strong cat with sharp claws. But there is hope if you are persistent.
You need to break them of this habit. Spray your valued possessions every day with special cat deterrent spray (you can find these sprays in most department and pet stores). You can also buy double-sided tape to place on surfaces that your cat seems most drawn to.
Over time, hopefully, you will find that your cat will lose interest in your valued items – they smell bad (cat repellent spray) or have a tacky surface (double-side tape). And like I said earlier, at the same time you should provide them with plenty of alternative surfaces to scratch so they will have their legitimate scratching needs met.
German shepherds are wonderful dogs. They are beautiful, smart, strong, and loyal – among other things.
And they deserve a great name that will do them justice.
The breed originated in Germany, where they are also known as Alsatians. They were bred as workers to guard and protect sheep – and they do their job extremely well. This ability also makes them excellent security and guard dogs.
The American Kennel Club classifies them in their Herding group and they represent a relatively large percentage of dog breeds registered.
This list of German shepherd dog names and meanings should give you plenty of ideas for naming your male or female puppy. They are names taken from the German language or they have some association with Germany.
Abelard – Noble and loyal. A good name for your pure-blooded German shepherd boy. Achtung – “Attention please.” Ada – Noble woman. Your pure-bred girl would love this name. Adelaide – Of the nobility. Adler – German word for Eagle. And excellent name for any watch or guard dog. Adolf or Adolph – Noble wolf. Alrich – All powerful leader. Ansatz – Starting place. Anselm, Anselma (Feminine) – Helmet of God. Bach – Johann Sebastian Bach was a famous German composer. Baldrich – Brave leader. Beethoven – Ludwig van Beethoven was a famous German composer. Berlin – A prominent and large German city. Bernd – Bear. A good name for any brave German dog. Bertha – Bright. This girl radiates intelligence. Blitz or Blitzer – All out or lightning offensive or defensive. Bruno – Brown-skinned. Carl – Man Carla – Feminine form of Man. Strong woman. Conrad – Brave counselor or advisor. Dieter – The people’s army or warrior. Eberhard – Brave boar. Einstein – Albert Einstein was a German born physicist who developed the theory of Relativity. An excellent name for your highly intelligent German Shepherd. Ernst – Sincere or serious. This dog is all business.
Franz – German term for French. Frau and Fräulein – Young woman or married woman. Freda or Frieda – Serene or calming. Geist – Spirit or mind. Gertrude, Gert, Gertie – Strong spear or strength of a spear. Gestalt – Shape or form. This dog is well-built. Godfrey or Gottfried – God’s peace. Gottlieb – God’s love. You feel blessed that this puppy came into your life. Gummi Bear – Chewy candy. Hartman – Strong Man. Heinrich – Ruler and counselor. Helmut – Brave protector. Herr – Man or Mister. Hilda – Battle or warrior maiden. Junker – Young lord. A good name for a pure bred German Shepherd that comes from Champion lines. Kaiser – Emperor. He’s a real Alpha-Male doggie. Klaus – Victorious people. Kobold – Little fairy or sprite in German folklore. Lager – A type of German beer. Ludwig – Renowned warrior. Luther – Martin Luther helped begin the Protestant Reformation. Meister – Master. Sometimes you feel like your dog is the real leader in your household. Otto – Wealthy. This German Shepherd has chew toys to spare. Panzer – A German tank. A name for any big, tough canine. Porsche – A fine German sports car brand. Rudolph or Rolf – German term for a famous wolf. Also a famous reindeer with a red nose. Schnaps – A rather strong alcoholic beverage. Schuss – Fast downhill skiing. Siegfried – Peace through victory. Steffi – Steffi Graf is considered one of the greatest female tennis players ever. Trommel – Cylinder or drum used to separate materials. Ulrich – Powerful ruler. He is definitely the alpha male. Valda – Strong ruler. She could be called the alpha female. Walzer – German form of Waltz (type of dance). This doggie is fairly graceful. Wolfgang – The way of the wolf.
Hopefully you have just seen one or a few German Shepherd dog names that strike your fancy – or more importantly your dog’s fancy.
The Boston Terrier has been nicknamed, and justly so “the American Gentleman.” And has earned its nick name due to its wonderful, gentle disposition. Not to mention its tuxedo like coat. The Boston Terrier is one of the few breeds that is truly “made in the America,” ” American Kennel club rates the Boston Terrier as one of the most intelligent breeds”…
It is hard to believe that the gentle Boston Terrier that we see today was once bread for as a pit-fighting dog. It is very difficult to comprehend that these friendly little dogs were once fierce pit fighters. Boston Terriers resembles the Staffordshire Bull Terrier, which possesses a strong fighting instinct. Today’s Boston Terriers in no way resemble the fighter it once was known to be.
This little gentleman of a dog that you will find today has evolved a long way from the pits of Boston. It is sad to think these wonderful dogs once were used to making money for their owners. Not only fighting in the pits, but as stud dogs, to produce more fighter. They were well prized, and highly valued for stud service.
In fact todays Boston Terrier is well known for its friendly disposition, intelligence, and lively personality. The breed has a wonderful disposition, and possesses good amount of intelligence, which makes the Boston Terrier a very desirable all around family pet. When choosing a Boston Terrier one should be educated on the breed. Along with some knowledge of just what to expect of the breed, and what qualities to look for when choosing your Boston Terrier. Your number one consideration should be to locate a good Boston Terrier breeder.
I have attempted to provided my readers with some useful history, and breed information. With hopes of aquatinting a perspective Boston Terrier owner with this wonderful breed of dog, the Boston Terrier.
The Boston Terriers origin was England. They bred Bull Terriers and Bulldogs, to produce a very powerful compact muscular bred. In the late 1800s some members of this hybrid stock were sent to America. In 1889, some dog fanciers in Boston organized the first American Bull Terrier Club.
Terrier breeders club members had great objections to this new breed, along with Bulldog fanciers objected that these crosses were not Terriers. In 1891 the name American Bull Terrier was changed to Boston Terrier Club of America. And standards for the Boston Terrier breed were written. They sought entrance to the AKC stud book, but were denied. By 1893, however, the breed was accepted and the first Boston Terrier was admitted To the AKC. The first Boston Terrier to be accepted as the standard of the breed was a dog by the title of Hector #28814, by Bixby’s Tony ex Dimple.
It took some time before the breed to catch on. It was not until 1915 that the breed had become the most popular breed in the country. The Boston Terrier was number one in registrations of the top twenty breeds. They again lead in registrations in 1920, and in 1930. The Boston’s terriers remained in the top ten position until 1960. Since then they have slipped in popularity.
Boston Terriers are extremely easy dogs to live with wanting only to please. Boston’s are extremely easy to train. Boston’s are strictly house dogs, they are not able to cope with extreme cold, nor can they deal with extreme heat. Boston’s can overheat very quickly due to the short muzzle and a slightly elongated palate.
Boston’s Terriers are high energy dogs, and need daily exercise. They are playful, and love all sorts of toys. Fetching, and, and playing with children is a favorite with this dog. It is always wise to teach a child how to play with a dog, and not to be overly aggressive with this breed. The Boston Terrier is a very intelligent dog, and prefers fetching, and finding a hidden toy, than wrestling…
Care of the Boston Terrier is easy, they being a short haired dog that sheds minimally. Weekly brushing is recommended, a rubber palm brush is what is recommended for their particular coat. The brushes I have found that work the best are: rubber palm brush and grooming mit. Work the palm brush in a circular motion, this aids in removing lose hair.
Due to the breeds elongated palate they may snore. It is normal in the Boston Terriers may show some degree of airway obstruction. Another problem in this breed, gas. A good diet, along with regular exercise, will keep this problem at bay.
Proper diet should always be considered a must with the Boston Terrier. To start as a puppy to adulthood, to old age. An improper diet as a rule will lead to gas, and intestinal problems for the Boston Terrier. While a puppy the diet must be healthy in order for the dog to form a good bone structure, and good muscle mass. Not to mention this is the time a dog will build a good immune system, to later ward off disease, and infections.
Health problems that the Boston Terrier has a predominance toward, juvenile cataracts, and hypothyroidism. As a rule juvenile cataracts can occur between 8 weeks and 12 months. If hypothyroid disease occurs, it can be controlled by medication.
The Boston Terrier is smooth coated, and short-headed, in general body is compact, with a short tail. The tail being short, All and all a very well proportioned, balanced dog. The head is in proportion to the size of the dog. The body is rather short and, due to this shortness of tail being so prominent, the dog may appears badly proportioned. The limbs strong and neatly turned.
The coat is short, smooth and bright with a fine texture. Color and markings, Desirable colors included, seal, black or brindle, with evenly marked white area’s. Brindle is the preferred. Seal appears black, with the except of a red cast that can be present when the dog is viewed in sun light. True black will appear black in any type of lighting.
Desirable markings to look for in a Boston Terrier include, white muzzle band, even white blaze between the eyes and over the head, white collar, white forechest, white on part or whole of forelegs and hind legs below the hocks.
Weight is divided by classes as follows: Under 15 pounds; 15 pounds and under 20 pounds; 20 pounds and not to exceed 25 pounds. A Boston Terriers leg length should balance with the length of body to give its unique square appearance. The Boston Terrier is a sturdy dog and must not appear to be either spindly or coarse. The muscle and bone must be in proportion, as well as the dog’s weight and structure. If weight and structure are out of balance the dog will appear blocky or chunky in appearance. The thighs are strong with good muscle mass, bent at the stifles and set true. The hocks are short to the feet, turning neither in nor out, with a well defined hock joint. The feet are small very compact with short nails.
The Head, the skull of a Boston Terries is square, flat on top, and smooth void of any wrinkles. Its cheeks flat, brow abrupt and well defined. The eyes are wide apart, set square in the skull, outside corners are in line with the cheeks. The Boston Terriers eyes are round, with large shocketts, dark in color, with a trace of dark blue. The ears are small, and erect. It is desirable that the ears are situated as near to the corners of the skull as possible. May need to be cropped to obtain the proper stature.
boston terrier
A Boston Terriers muzzle should be short, square, wide and deep, wrinkle free, and well proportioned to the dogs head. The muzzle is shorter in length than in width or depth. Not exceeding in length one-third of the length of the skull. The muzzle from stop to end of the nose is parallel to the top of the skull. The nose is black and wide, with a well defined line between the nostrils. The jaw is broad and square, teeth are short and regular in appearance. The bite is even or sufficiently undershot to square the muzzle. The chops are of good depth, but not completely covering the teeth when the mouth is closed. The Boston Terriers _expression as a rule, portrays pure intelligence’s along with great determination.
Neck, The length of neck must display balance to the total dog. It is a bit arched, carrying the head with grace, and sitting neatly into the shoulders. The back is just short, this give rise to the Boston Terrier Square appearance. The top-line is level, the rump curves slightly to the set-of the tail. The chest is wide and deep. The body should appear short. The tail is set on low, short. The preferred tail does not exceed in length more than one-quarter the distance from set-on to hock.
The Boston Terrier is a friendly and lively dog. The breed has an excellent disposition and a high degree of intelligence, which makes the Boston Terrier an incomparable companion. Not to mention they are very easy to train. They catch on quickly, and remember what they learn.
When buying a Boston Terrier take in to consideration. Will the dog be integrated with children? If your children are young, it is recommand an older puppy or grown dog. A dog that can hold its own, when having to flee an over active child. Will the pet be coming into a home with an elderly person?An older dog is recommended. A dog that will require less activity, and will be less likely to get under foot. Make sure to take in account how much time you have to spend with your new dog? A puppy deserves an owner that will have time to train, and play with them. An older mature dog requires much less play time, and as a rule should be trained by the breeder. Are you willing to take the time to house train? Are your positive you are ready to handle the responsibility for a pet?
You have made up your mind, and are ready to make a long time commitment to caring for a pet. Where do you start to find just the right dog?
Start by asking your local Veterinarian for referrals on breeders. You can also contacting breeding clubs, most have referral lists of breeders. When you find a breeder, make an appointment to visit, and look over the kennels, and dogs on the premises. Is all in good order? Do the dogs look healthy? Do the dogs have a good rapport with the breeder? Does the breeder appear interested in placing the dog in the right home or are they just ready to sell to the first buyer? Ask the breeder if they sell to pet stores. Remember, a reputable breeder will never sell her dogs to a pet store. A good breeder is very discriminative on who their dogs will be sold to. A good breeder will interview a perspective buyer, with hopes of placing their dogs with just the right owner.
Once you feel comfortable that you have located just the right breeder. I suggest you do some research on bringing home a puppy. It is smart to be well educated in training techniques, what you will need in regard to supplies. Also the best suggestions to make your new little family member feel at home. Its a good idea to read up on the actual breed you have decided to buy. Breeds differ in many ways. Its good to know up front any and all tendency a given breed may exhibit.
You have made up your mind to purchase a Boston Terrier. You have found a good breeder, and are ready to head out and pick that pup… Here are the general traits you should look for when choosing a Boston Terrier. Keep in mind, you may just fall in love with a bum of the breed, that’s good too… They all need good homes, and will bring lots of love into your home. You see, the prize or the runt of the litter, don’t realize they are different from one another. They both have a great capacity to give friendship, and love to their family.
Saltwater Aquarium Care – How to Maintain the Health of Your Saltwater Aquarium Plants
Good saltwater aquarium care means taking care of the fish and water quality in your tank but it also means taking care of your aquarium plants. Not only do your aquarium plants create an interesting home and shelter for your fish, they are also essential for the health of your fish, water quality and the tank as a whole. Proper, saltwater aquarium care, therefore, must always take into account the health of your marine plants.
Some marine plants are hardy and easy to care for while others need quite a bit of practice and experience. If you are a novice aquarist it is a good idea to start with hardy plants, as these are easier to care for. Once you have a bit more practice in correct saltwater aquarium care you can move on to fussier varieties.
The first thing to do is to decide what you want to achieve with your marine plants. You should do this even before you buy your tank. If you want big, healthy plants make sure you know what equipment you need, what sort of saltwater aquarium care is required and how much time it will take you to achieve these results.
If you are more concerned with the fish in your tank than plant life then it might be a good idea to invest in one or two plastic plants instead. Responsible saltwater aquarium care means knowing what you want and getting the balance right.
While most marine plants do grow into lush, healthy plants they all need good lighting. This is so that they have enough energy for making their own food by means of photosynthesis. Without sufficient light for photosynthetic activity your plants will remain stunted or die. So part of correct saltwater aquarium care involves making sure that your aquarium provides sufficient lighting for plant growth.
To make sure that your plants are getting enough light keep the following rule of thumb in mind: For each gallon of water in a tank you will require 3 to 5 watts of light. Most aquarium lighting systems are below that level, however so you may need to shop around to find adequate lighting to make sure you are providing the proper saltwater aquarium care for your plants.
In the natural aquarium the fish and plant populations are perfectly balanced and compliment each other. Marine plants create shelter, shade, and even food for your fish! Plants that are well lit will give off oxygen and this creates a good environment for your fish. So proper saltwater aquarium care makes your tank healthy and provides optimum conditions for plants and fish alike.
saltwater aquarium care
The fish will, in turn, feed off the carbon dioxide released by the fish. Plants also feed off the waste that fish produce. This helps to absorb some of the waste that might become toxic to your fish. So as you can see proper saltwater aquarium care means maintaining a healthy balance for all the life in your tank.
To provide proper saltwater aquarium care for your plants and fish you need to make sure that conditions in your tank are optimal. Plant growth needs water which is at the correct ph levels. It also needs the water to be at the correct temperature for growth and survival.
Unfortunately this might not fit in with the temperature requirements of the fish species you want to keep. So you might have to decide between plants and fish in some cases. Again, good saltwater aquarium care is always about finding the happy medium.
Fish also eat or tear away sections of plants and this might actually ruin the aesthetic appeal of your tank. Plants may be uprooted by the foraging activity of your fish. So plant care can be a bit tricky and does require some patience. One of the most frustrating aspects of saltwater aquarium care is the occurrence of marine algae.
Algae can really be a problem for the marine aquarist. Sometimes despite the best saltwater aquarium care – lights, substrate additives, fertilizers and CO2 systems – instead of lush plant growth you are confronted with algal growth. Algae can be very difficult to get rid of once it has taken root and it can really limit the growth of other plants.
Usually the aquarist employs various methods of saltwater aquarium care for combating this scourge. These might include using algicides, bleach dips, antibiotics (for cyanobacteria), manual removal or fish or invertebrates that feed on algae.
During an algal attack the amount of food and light is decreased and different amounts of fertilizer are tried – sometimes with success. Correct saltwater aquarium care results in some sort of balance being reached.
The best form of saltwater aquarium care and algae treatment is to provide the tank with a water change. In fact if you could change the tank water daily it would be ideal but this is obviously not very practical. You should change 25% of the water at least twice weekly, however. If you can stick to this schedule the amount of algae in the tank will be reduced and your fish and plants will be healthier. A water change should form a part of routine saltwater aquarium care whether you have an algal problem or not.
So what kinds of plants can you grow in a saltwater aquarium? A variety of plants are suitable for a saltwater aquarium. Choose from grape algae (Caulerpa racemosa), Halimeda Halimeda sp, shaving brush algae (Penicillus capitus), fan algae (Udotea flabellum), corralline bush algae (Galaxaura sp.), sea grass, red gracilaria (which your fish can eat) and many others. Proper saltwater aquarium care means making sure that your plants and fish co-exist in perfect harmony.
Proper saltwater aquarium care means really getting to know your marine tank. Do as much research as possible to ensure that your marine plants and fish have everything they need to grow, stay healthy and be happy. If you get it right, your aquarium will provide you with many hours of entertainment, fun and pleasure. Good luck and enjoy your aquarium!
It’s easy to find people with puppies to sell. However, there are some things you can’t tell just by looking at a puppy. If you want to be sure about the character and health of your dog your best bet is to choose a reputable breeder. They will be able to provide a guarantee and you can be sure about what kind of dog you are getting. If you are serious about finding a good purebred dog then here are some tips for choosing a good breeder.
Reputable breeders know a lot about the breed they specialize in. If you are really serious about choosing the best breeder then the best thing to do is ask various people. Ask veterinarians, groomers and other people directly involved with dogs on a daily basis. They will have some good suggestions for you.
If you want a reputable dealer its best not pick one out of the classifieds. As with everything, if the breeder really is top quality then they will have no reason to be advertising in the classifieds. Some breeders have puppies booked years in advance. Another reason you don’t want to find someone in the newspaper is they offer no guarantees. Usually forty-eight hours is all you get and if something happens to that puppy six months from now most will just say it’s not their problem. Most reputable breeders will not only give you a year guarantee or more but they will also give you lifetime support.
Another sign of a good breeder is they involved in some rescue of the type they breed. Breeders will usually look to help their breed. Also notice if they will take a puppy back if for some reason the buyer can’t take care of it. Most will not refund any money but at least they care enough about the puppy they’ve bred and will always have a home to come to.
The most obvious clues about the quality of the breeder is by looking at the puppies themselves. Puppies are a product of their upbringing and a healthy puppy will have a pleasant temperament as well as a healthy look. This means no runny noses, clear eyes and, of course a wagging tail. If you are buying over the internet see if the breeder can send you a video of your puppy.
The environment in which the puppies are kept will also tell you a lot about the standard of the breeder. If the environment is clean and the puppies have space then it is more likely that the breeder is a good one.
It’s a good idea to talk and find out about your intended breeder before seeing the puppies. See if they have children and are involve in social activities. Most Puppy millers wouldn’t have time for this. Often once you see them you can be much easier to convince – because you have been convinced by those big eyes! Ask to see the dog’s parents and try to assess their demeanor. Stay away from dogs that seem unusually fearful or aggressive.
You should already know quite a bit about the breed you are interested in. Ask your breeder any questions you might have left. Don’t forget to ask about chronic conditions and special care. After all, this is their passion and many have spent years learning about their chosen breed and living with them! If a breeder is good then they will be just as concerned about figuring out if you are going to be a good dog owner. A good breeder cares a great deal about the puppies and the homes they are sent out into.
For most good breeders, the main goal is not to make money. In recent years however finding a puppy on the internet has become popular. It’s a little harder to find a good breeder on the internet but every tip I have given here will still help you. You may not personally be able to go to see where the dogs are raised however you can tell a lot by a conversation. Just by talking to people you can tell if they are educated or not and they still should be able to tell you about the breed (s) they breed.
Now that you know what to look for there are some things you should avoid at all costs.
Any puppy that comes from a backyard or puppy mill can be a dangerous buy. A backyard breeder will know little about the breed standards. Often they don’t maintain puppy’s health properly. Backyard breeders and puppy millers will sell the puppies often at six weeks of age because they have just got too many; having to move them out for the next litter.
Puppy mills produce large amounts of puppies often in horrible conditions. There isn’t appropriate medical care and more often than not, the puppies are not fed well. Puppy mills often sell directly to pet stores. For this reason it is best to avoid puppies bought from pet stores. Often the puppies are separated from their parents at much too young an age, often as early as 4-5 weeks old as well as the other problems of lack of healthcare, love and attention.
When choosing a breeder look find out how many breeds they breed. Usually two or three different breed types is what seems to be the standard. However this is not the case any longer. If a breeder breeds more then this most likely the person started out with one. Find out when they started out with that one and you can find out a lot by how it progressed. Judging by the conversation on the phone with them you can usually tell their level of knowledge. If it’s just a puppy and they don’t know anything then that’s a clear sign to move on.
Most reputable breeders will not let there puppies go before they turn eight weeks of age or more depending on the breed. Most puppies are not completely weaned and self sufficient any younger then that. This varies among the breeds. Most breeders will talk about the there age, when they let them go and also about the transition from one home to the next before selling the puppy.
There is so much more that could be said about choosing a good breeder however the space here does not permit it. If you will just follow these few simple steps you will have already beat the odds of finding a good puppy. It goes both ways, not only do you the buyer wants a happy puppy but the breeder also wants you to have a happy and healthy puppy for the years to come.
